Stocking and method of knitting the same



Sept. 13, 1932. M. c. MILLER STOCKING AND METHOD OF KNITTING THE SAME 3 Sheets-Sheet Original Filed Jan. 7, 1925 Sept. 13, 1932. M. c. MILLER 1,876,721

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STOCKING AND METHODOF KNITTING THE SAME Original Filed Jan. 7, 1925 5 Sheets-Sheet 3 VIII/101111014 Patented Sept. 13, 1932 PATENT OFFIE MAX 0. MILLER, OF CUMBERLAND, RHODE ISLAND STOCKING AND METHOD- OF KNITTING THE SAME Application filed January 7, 1925, Serial No. 992. Renewed February 17, 1932.

The invention relates to a seamless stocking and method of knitting the same.

The primary object of the invention is the production of a seamless stocking comparable both in appearance and physical structure with the so-called full fashioned stocking. In attaining this object, features of invention are utilized which are not limited in their application to a stocking which embodies all the contributing features but are novel and useful in themselves and may be incorporated in stockings in which all or a part of the other features are lacking. For instance, the structure of the heel and the method of knitting it are novel and may be applied with advantage to seamless stockings or half hose which are otherwise of usual or well known structure and appearance. Likewise the line of demarcation down the back of the stocking may be applied to stockings otherwise corresponding to stockings of the prior art. Other features of this character are indicated in the claims.

A stocking and the method of knitting the same, including all the features of the invention, are illustrated in the accompanying drawings in which Fig. 1 is a side view of a stocking; Fig. 2 is a back view of a fashioned part of the leg; Fig. 3 is a top View of the toe; Fig. 4 indicates diagrammatically a two bank fiat machine of the Lamb type having small groups of overlying needles utilized in knitting the stocking; Figs. 5 to 12 indicate diagrammatically the method of knitting the stocking shown in Fig. 1, and Figs. 13 to 21 indicate diagrammatically methods of knitting demarcation lines.

. The stocking shown is a closed toe stocking and may be knit on a two bank straight machine having a small group of additional needles indicated at Z, Fig. 4, overlying (or underlying) the regular beds so mounted that they may be shifted or rocked with relation to the regular needles indicated at X, Fig. 4.

In knitting the stocking shown, the knitting begins at the toe line A, a setting up course being formed on the overlying needles Z. As shown, there are twelve of these needles, six for each bank and they are split into two sets of six, three in each'bed, which may be racked or shifted toward the outer ends of the needle beds to permit needles of the regular beds to come into action between them. In forming the setting up course, all the overlying needles of both banks knit together as indicated in Fig. 5, the active needles being indicated bythe solid dots and the inactive by the circles in this and the following figures. After the setting up,'the two sets separate and a needle from each bank, indicated at J in Fig. 6 and Fig. 1, comes into action thus adding a wale at each side of the toe and widening. the fabric to that extent. At each subsequent course,- or with a repeat course between, needles are added on each side of the needles J until the toe has been widened to the desired extent, as shown in Fig. 7, or at line B, Fig. 1, the two sets of needles Z being moved towards the 7 ends of the beds to permit the successive needles to be added between these needles and the previously active needles of the main banks. By this method of knitting and widening asymmetrical pointed toe may be produced with the wales knit by the needles Z extending along the top and bottom of the toe between the widening wales, the juncture loops of which are joined with marginal wales of the series of wales Z. This eliminates the objectionable series of juncture loops forming a suture line along the top and bottom of the toe which result from the usual method of widening by adding needles at the ends of the setting up course, and also improves both the appearance, shape and wearing qualities of this part of the stockings.

At this point it may be stated that the Wales knit by the needles Z, and designated Z in Fig. 1, extend from end to end of the stocking and forconvenience may be termed standing wales. The needles added in widening the toe are indicated at X in Fig. 7 and the wales knit by them at X in Fig. 1.

The needles indicated in Fig. 8 are in action until the line B at the heel end'of the foot is reached, at which time needles are added 4 at the right hand side only, as indicated in Fig. 8. These added needles are indicated at X. and the wales knit by them at X in Fig. 1. 100

Widening or fashioning wales are thus inserted adjoining the marginal standing Wales and contributing to the formation of a properly shaped heel.

When the line C is reached, those needles at the left of point U are put out of action leaving in action only the needles which are to knit the heel, as indicated in Fig. 9. In knitting the heel the fabric is narrowed to the right of needles U to the point V, Figs. 1 and 9, after which a number of needles are left out, thus narrowing in a group to points Y. The fabric is then widened at each course back to the points V. This forms triangular gores at the outer ends of the narrowing lvlvhilch contributes to the proper shape of the After widening to the points V, there is a sudden increase in the number of needles to the point U knitting the course E to the point U, Figs. 1 and 11. The next course narrows back one needle and is knit to the point U on the other side. The return course narrows back a needle and is knit to point U. The next course narrows back a needle and thereafter the fabric is gradually widened to W. The fabric is then gradually narrowed to U until the course E is reached. This forms a gore between the lines E E having a wedge shaped end at each side of the instep and gives shape and increased room to the heel portion of the stocking. In the course E the knitting is stopped on 'needle V, Fig. 9. The fabric is then gradually narrowed to Y, after which it is suddenly widened to V, thus completing triangular gores at the ends of the main widening for the heel which form lateral extensions of the gore between the lines E E. The fabric is then gradually widened to U when the same number of needles will be in action as at the beginning of the narrowing and as indicated in Fig. 9. This completes the heel and knitting continues on all the needles which were in action at the beginning of the heel, as indicated in Fig. 9.

By this method a heel is formed provided on each side with a rectangular gore between the main narrowing courses and the main widening courses having, at the ends of the main narrowing and widening suture lines, lateral extensions or supplemental triangular gores. The instep end of the inserted gore is also V-shaped to form a close and durable juncture with the foot and ankle wales at this point. A roomy well shaped heel is thus provided which compares favorably with the heel of a full fashioned stocking or half hose. Its superiority over the common form of seamless heel is apparent. In the heelthere is insufficient fabric between the lines C C resulting in a large pucker B which destroys the fit over the instep. With the heel of this invention, the pucker at B is reduced to that requisite for securing the 1 C and D plus that between lines D and U,

whereas in the stocking of Fig. 1, this distance is increased by the distance between D and D. This greatly improves the seamless heel and gives an amountof fabric in the heel substantially equal to that in the full fashioned stocking. The broad gore between the main narrowing and widening suture lines with its supplemental lateral extensions at the ends of such lines formed by the supplemental narrowing and widenings also gives a fashioned shape to the heel similar to that of the full fashioned stocking and adapted to closely fit the heel of the foot without straining the instep wales or adversely affecting the fit over the instep. An improved heel may be secured even if one or both of the supplemental gores are omitted and the invention is not limited to a heel having the supplemental gores. These gores do, however, form an added feature of improvement and invention.

After the completion of the heel, knitting on the foot and ankle needles, indicated in Fig. 8, continues until the point is reached where the fashioning for the calf is to begin, indicated by line G in Fig. 1. Needles X are then added one at a time in each bank between the right hand overlying set and the active needles X of the main beds, as when fashioning the toe or foot, until the desired number have been added to shape the calf, Fig. 11. Knitting is then continued on these needles until the leg portion is reached, when needles are again added to widen and shape the leg to the point H when all the needles used in knitting the stocking are in use as indicated in Fig. 12. The stocking is then completed and cast off preparatory to setting up I and knitting another.

It will be noted that the edge needles are always the overlying needles forming the continuous or standing wales Z and that when fashioning by adding the widening or fashioning wales, the standing wales separate the fashioning wales and make juncture therewith without transfer of stitches. The fashioning wales make juncture with the marginal standing wales as with the border wales of the full fashioned stocking.

The stocking may be and preferably is provided with a spliced or reenforced area above the heel which is preferably upwardly tapered or triangular, as indicated by the inclined line Fig. 1. The stocking may also have a spliced or a split sole as indicated by the horizontal line K in this view.

Wearers of silk and the higher grades of stockings have become accustomed to a well defined line of demarcation down the center of the back which enables them to get the stocking on straight up and down and which al o gives the stocking a distinctive appearance. In the full fashioned stocking this line is afforded by the seam which unites the edges of the flat fabric from which the leg of the stocking is formed. Various expedients have been resorted to in incorporating such line in seamless stockings most or all of which have been more or less objectionable by reason of impairment of the strength or elasticity of the fabric or otherwise. A feature of the present invention provides for a line of demarcation in a seamless fabric in a novel and improved manner and such line is preferably incorporated in the stocking although, for the sake of clearness, it has not been illustrated in Figs. 1 to 12. This line comprises one or more wales located between the evenly spaced wales of the fabric and located on the outside thereof. These wales when located at the center-of the standing wales at the back of the stocking of Figs. 1 and 2 appear as a rib or ridge protruding outside the fabric and extending up and down along the back of the stocking to form a line of demarcation which strengthens rather than weakens the fabric and which does not lessen its elasticity or cause additional strain on the adjacent loops in drawing the stocking on. In the fashioned part of the stocking the rib is parallel and directly connected with parallel wales intermediate the fashioning wales, its location with reference to the fashioning wales corresponding to that of the back seam in a stocking formed of a flat fashioned web. This rib may be formed by drawing or tying together two wales and leaving one or more wales outside and interknit with the tied together wales. In knitting the demarcation line on a two bank straight machine, the wales may be tied together and the rib wales formed by the main fabric yarn or the rib wales may be formed by an extra yarn which is interknit with the tied together wales. In knitting such line on. a circular machine, the outside wales may be knit by needles arranged to knit between two of the main fabric needles and supplied with an extra yarn which is also supplied to the needles knitting the tied together wales and is by them interknit with the fabric as will be more fully explained.

In Fig. 13 a method of knitting the demarcation line upon a two bank straight machine is illustrated diagrammatically. As here shown, the tied together wales are tied by the main yarn which is also fed to the needles knitting the protruding or rib wales, and the yarn is fed in a manner to form four demarcation or rib wales outside the tied together wales. As here shown, the yarn after forming the loop F on the front bank crosses to the back bank forming the loops T, T then crossing to the front bank and forming the loops S S and then again crossing tothe back bank and forming the loop R R etc.

The lengths of yarn T connecting the wale R with the wale S and the wale F with the wale T are equal to the distance between the banks or the same as the length of yarn used to form the sinker wale bar F and the wales R F in the finished fabric are therefore tied together by substantially the same lengths of yarn or bars as the adjacent wales throughout the fabric, and the wales S, S T, T, form, in effect, a small tube interknit with the main fabric and forming a rib or ridge extending along the face of the fabric, as indicated diagrammatically in Fig. 14:.

Figs. 15 and 16 are views similar to Figs. 13 and 14:, in which two demarcation wales S, T are knit beyond the tied together wales F R instead of the four demarcation wales indicated in Figs. 13 and 14.

Fig. 17 is a view similar to Figs. 13 and 15 showing a method of knitting the rib or demarcation wales from a separate yarn which is interknit with the main yarn in the tied together wales. As here shown, the main yarn leads from the loop F in the front bank to the loop R in the back bank as in knitting a tubular fabric in which the needles knitting the loops F R are thelast active needles. A separate yarn I is also fed to the needles knitting the loops F R and to the needles knitting the loops S and T of the rib or demarcation wales. This yarn leads from the loop R to the loop T across to the loop S. then to the loop F and from the loop F back to a loop B. As here shown, the wales F R are tied together by the main yarn crossing from one bank to the other as well as by the separate yarn also crossing from one bank to the other and interknit with the tied together wales. In this case, as in that illustrated in Figs. 13 and 15, the number of demarcation or rib wales may be varied as desired. In any case, the tied together wales may be connected by bars of yarn corresponding sub stantially to the sinker wale bars connecting the wales throughout the fabric and the demarcation line is formed by added wales interknit therewith and protruding from the face of the fabric. By control of the tension, particularly in the form indicated in Fig. 17. the tied together wales may even be drawn closer together than the regular spacing of the wales throughout the rest of the fabric. In knitting the fabric, as indicated in Fig. 17, it will be found desirable to slightly increase the stitch length in knitting the wales F, R to which both the main and separate yarns are fed in order that the length of these wales may be the same as the length of the wales knit from the main or separate yarn only.

In knitting the demarcation line on a machine, such as indicated in Figs. 5 to 12, the right hand set of shiftable needles may include the needles upon which the added wales are to be knit, and these needles may be rendered active when such wales are to be knit.

The wales may run down the back through the high splice to the heel, or even through the heel and foot.

Figs. 18, 19 and 20 show diagrammatically a method of producing a fabric having a two Wale demarcation rib such as indicated in Fig. 16 upon a circular type of machine. As here indicated, the demarcation rlb wales are knit by two supplemental needles S, T ar- 1'0" then to the front of the needles S, T and the needle R This is a wrapping operation which may be effected by the ,known mechanism indicated above. By the time the feeding point is reached, the wrapped yarn is in the hooks of the needles F S, T and R and at the feeding point of the main yarn the needles S, T are too low to take the main yarn in their hooks as it is being fed to the body fabric needles including the needles F R The needles F R therefore, form loops from both main and separate yarns while the needles S, T form loops from the separate yarn only. The fabric indicated in Fig. 16 is therefore produced in which the wales knit by the needles R F are equally spaced with the other wales of the fabric while the added wales knit by the needles S, T protrude from the face of the fabric and form a bunch of demarcation line along that part of the fabric knit with the needles S, T in action. The needles S, T may have shorter shanks than the regular needles so that their butts may be acted upon by separate cams and these needles may also be formed on one shank, as in dicated in Fig. 21. For fine gauges it may be found desirable to slightly change the gauge between the needles F and R to permit the free working of the needles S, T.

The term stocking when used in this specification and claims is intended, when the context admits, to include both full length stockings and so-called half hose.

What is claimed is:

1. The method of knitting a stocking having a closed fashioned toe which comprises forming a setting-up course, knitting along the top and bottom of the toe, a series of continuous wales corresponding to loops in the setting-up course, and during such knitting adding fashioning wales at both sides of both series along both top and bottom.

2. A stocking comprising a seamless heel I having between the narrowing and widening suture lines a gore, the instep end of which is wedge-shaped and the outer end of which is further wldened to flare outwardly, the intermediate position between said instep and outer ends having its sides substantially parallel.

3. A stocking comprising a seamless heel having between the main narrowed and widened portions of the fabric a gore formed of courses, the lengths of which vary to form converging suture lines at the instep endand diverging suture lines at the opposite end, and substantially parallel suture lines intermediate said ends.

4. Astocking comprising a seamless heel having between the main narrowed and widened portions a gore forming parallel suture lines with said portions, and courses of decreasing lengths on opposite sides of said gore beyond said suture lines forming supplemental gores.

5. A stocking comprising a seamless heel having intermediate the narrowed and widened portions a series of courses extending around the back of the heel, and a triangular gore at the side of the intermediate courses adjoining the back of the heel.

6. A stocking comprising a seamless heel having between the narrowed and widened portions a series of courses extending around the back of the heel and terminating at the instep ends of said portions, and a triangular gore at the side of the intermediate courses adjoining the back of the heel.

7 A stocking comprising a seamless heel having between the narrowed and widened portions a series of portions extending around the back of the heel, and a triangular gore on each side of the intermediate courses adjoining the back of the heel.

8. A stocking comprising a seamless heel provided with a rectangular gore between the main widening portions having beyond the ends of the main narrowing and widening suture lines lateral extensions or supplemental triangular gores.

9. A stocking comprising a seamless heel having between the main narrowed and widened suture lines a gore provided at the ends of said lines with supplemental extension gores formed by supplemental narrowings and widenings.

10. A stockin comprising a seamless heel having intermediate the main narrowing and widening suture lines a series of courses of varying lengths on opposite sides of the intermediate courses beyond the ends of said suture lines.

11. The method of knitting a seamless sock or stocking which comprises knitting the heel by narrowing needle by needle on the heel needles to a certain needle, narrowing a plurality of needles in a group, widening needle by needle to said certain needle, knitting a series of courses from end to end of the heel needles, and stopping the last course at said certain needle, narrowing needle by needle for a plurality of courses, widening a plurality of needles in a group, widening needle by needle to the needles on which the initial narrowing began, and then resuming tubular knitting.

12. The method of knitting a seamless stocking which comprises knitting the heel by knitting a narrowed fabric, knitting a series of courses back and forth along the edge of th narrowed fabric and a gore at the side of said courses on opposite sides of the heel, and knitting a widened fabric adjoining the courses opposite the narrowed fabric.

13. The method of knitting a seamless stocking which comprises knitting the heel by knitting a narrowed fabric, knitting a series of courses back and forth along the edge of the narrowed fabric and gores at both sides of said courses on opposite sides of the heel, and knitting a widened fabric adjoining the courses opposite the narrowed fabric.

14. A seamless stocking comprising a fashioned toe having standing wales extending along its top and bottom between the fashioning wales and to the top of the stocking, fashioning wales adjoining the bottom standing wales at the heel end of-the foot, and a gore between the narrowed and widened portions of the heel.

15. A seamless stocking comprising a fashioned toe having standing wales extending along its top and bottom between the fashioning wales and to the top of the stocking, fashioning wales adjoining the bottom standing wales at the heel end of the foot, a gore between the narrowed and widened portions of the heel, and fashioning wales adjoining the standing wales at the back of the le 16; A seamless stocking having fashioning wales at the heel end of the foot, a gore intermediate the narrowed and widened portions of the heel, and intermediate the narrowed and widened portions of the heel a series of courses extending around the back of the heel and terminating at the instep ends of said portions.

17 A seamless stocking having fashioning wales at the heel end of the foot, a gore intermediate the narrowed and widened portions of the heel, and fashioning wales at the back of the leg.

18. A seamless stocking having a closed fashioned toe comprising a plurality of standing wales extending from the end along the top and bottom and continuously around the end of the toe, and fashioning wales adjoining and each terminating in the marginal standing wales on opposite sides thereof along both the top and bottom of the toe.

19. A seamless stocking having a symmetrically closed toe comprising a plurality of standing wales extending continuously around the end of the toe and along the top and bottom, and intermediate widening wales on opposite sides thereof, an equal number of ioned fabric on parallel banks of needles which comprises knitting on two parallel banks of selvage needles which are each separated into two groups, and inserting additional needles into active knitting position between the said groups of needles.

21. The method of knitting a tubular fash ioned fabric on parallel banks of needles which comprises knitting ontwo parallel banks of selvage needles which are each rated into two groups, and inserting into active knitting position between the said groups needles from cooperating banks of needles.

22. .The method of knitting a tubular fashioned fabric onparallel banks of needles which comprises knitting on parallel banks of selvage needles which are each separated into groups, and inserting into active knitting position between the said groups needles from cooperating parallel needle banks.

23. The method of knitting a tubular fashioned fabric on parallel banks of needles which comprises knitting on parallel banks of selvage needles and on needles of cooperating parallel needle banks inserted between groups of said selvage needles, and bringing into action additional needles, said needles being added to the active series on each of the parallel needle banks between said groups of selvage needles.

24C. The method of knitting a tubular fashioned fabric on parallel banks of needles which comprises knitting on parallel banks of selvage needles, and on active needles of cooperating parallel needle banks inserted between groups of said selvage needles, and bringing into action additional needles on each bank, the needles being added to bothendsof the previously active needles intermediate the groups of selvage needles.

25. The method of knitting a tubular fashioned fabric on parallel banks of needles which comprises setting up on parallel banks of selvage needles, continuing these needles in action during the knitting of the toe, during such knitting dividing the selvage needles on both banks into two groups, separating the groups and bringing into action between them additional needles from cooperating parallel needle banks, each needle when added adjoining an inner needle of one of said groups.

26. A seamless stocking having a needle fashioned toe comprising a plurality of standing wales extending along the top of the toe, a series of standing wales extending along the bottom of the toe, a setting-up course joining the said series of wales to form a closed tip to the toe, and fashioning wales between the top and bottom series of standing wales.

27. A seamless stocking having a needle fashioned toe comprising a plurality of standing wales extending from the tip along I the top and bottom of the toe, a setting-up 5 course joining the said series of wales to form a closed tip to the toe, and fashioning wales adjoining the marginal standing Wales.

28. A seamless stocking having a needle fashioned toe comprising a plurality of 10 standing Wales extending from the tip along the top and bottom of the toe, a setting-up course joining the said series of wales to form a closed tip to the toe, and fashioning wales adjoining the marginal standing wales 1 on opposite sides thereof along both the top and bottom of the toe. Y

29. A seamless stocking having a needle fashioned symmetrical pointed toe comprising a plurality of standing wales extending 2 from the tip along the top and bottom of the toe intermediate the widening wales, and a setting-up course joining the said series of wales to form a closed tip to the toe.

In testimony whereof I have signed my 25 name to this specification.

MAX G. MILLER,

,H. in) 

